Posted by Had a great night sleep in Bill Jones Hut. All the descriptions I’d heard of the place were that it was a really rudimentary hut with a dirt floor and not a great place to stay. On the contrary I found it to be an awesome hut, in a great location with sheltered surrounds , and even equipped with a wooden slated bed that kept me off the dirt floor. This would be my last night in NSW as I headed into the ACT today at Murrys Gap.
The day commenced by a short walk out across the open plains to reunite with the AAWT. Plenty of brumbies were out grazing in the morning sun. Some rain had fallen overnight but nowhere near the 10-20mm forecast. Perhaps that would come later in the day.
The morning would see me cruising on yet more closed forest tracks for 10km all the way to Oldfields Hut. It was mostly flat with one short but very steep hill that took a huge effort just before Oldfields. Having had it easy on flat and unduly tracks all the way from Thredbo, this hill caught me off guard. It was like I’d stepped back into Victoria where the concept of switchbacks is no existent and everything is either straight up or straight down. (Little did I know this would be the trend right through the ACT and to the end).
I met a few south bounders along the way, all stopping for a chat and offering congratulations on nearing the end of the AAWT.
I reached Oldfield’s mid morning and stopped for some morning tea. This had to have been the best mountain hut I’d encountered along the whole route. Pity I didn’t get the opportunity to stay here. Well cared for and in good knick, the multi-roomed hut had an inviting long veranda that I could see myself wasting away an afternoon reading a book. But I had to keep moving.
That this stage I hadn’t quite committed to completing the track tomorrow or the next day. Much hinged on the weather and a potential climb up Bimberi Peak. But leaving Oldfield’s Hut it was becoming obvious that I wouldn’t be climbing Bimberi. Isolated storm cells had started to build around the mountain tops with lightning and huge thunder grumbles starting to be heard. Open mountain tops are no place to be in lightning storms and the decision to not climb Bimberi was pretty much made for me. What not climbing the peak did mean though, was that it would buy an additional 3 hours to my day and allowing me to extend todays distance and prospect of completing the AAWT midday tomorrow, one day earlier than expected.
Climbing towards Murray’s Gap and the turn off towards Bimberi along the NSW-ACT border, storm cells intensified, cementing the decision not to climb it. Heavy rain could be seen around the traps but none had come directly overhead.
Reaching Murray’s Gap was exciting as it marked crossing from one state into another. I sought some shade for a quick break and then started a steep descent down towards the Cotter River, the descent confirming my suspicions that the tracks through the ACT would follow the Victorian model of being straight up and straight down. Geez I was spoiled with the tracks through most of NSW. From here it would be back into the knee paining descents and steep climbs.
Towards the Cotter River, trail markers were virtually absent and my navigation app directed me into a short off track section towards the river. There were obvious dry foot crossings so it pack down time to take shoes and socks off. On the other-side of the river while drying feet I took the opportunity to investigate some minor pain under my right little toe and found a blister had developed under it. The first blister of the whole trip and on the second last day. I put this down to the state of my dirty 3 day old socks and the friction caused by accumulated grit. Better to deal with it now so I retrieved a needle from my repair kit, pierced the blister and drained it as best I could. Shoes and socks back on, I could still feel the friction point but it was better than before.
From the Cotter River there was about 3 or 4km on nice single track for a change which I thoroughly enjoyed and then there would be a steady climb uphill following Pond Creek to Cotter Gap. With all the storm cells around it was incredibly humid and this climb absolutely sapped me of energy. By the time I’d reached the Gap my shirt was saturated with sweat and my hat dripping as sweat poured from my head. Time for some electrolytes. Nearing the top I noticed a rock cave that would have made for a perfect dry camp and explored about.
Of course now that we know the state of play in relation to ACT track construction, what goes up, has to go straight back down again. The descent off Cotter Gap towards Sawpit Creek was a knee killer. Having nit encountered slopes like this for more than a week it took it slow, using my trekking poles to absorb as much pressure as possible down hill.
On reaching Sawpit Creek I dipped my water bottle for a refill and drank deep from the clear and refreshing waters. I would have consumed close to 2litres of water through the day already in the humidity.
Single track continued for a few kilometres from Sawpit Creek, eventually leading me out to a road which I’d follow for the rest of the afternoon. With the extra hours in my day having not climbed Bimberi, I didn’t really know how far I’d get for the day, much would depend on the terrain and availability of water, but I did have my sights fixed on reaching the Orroral River, a major river for Canberra’s water supply. I’m fairly sure you are meant to obtain a permit to stay within the catchment, however how the hell was I supposed to arrange that in the middle of nowhere with no cell service? I was prepared to risk it and cop a fine if found by parks staff but also knew that I would be extremely low impact on the area and posed little risk to the water supply.
Coming out into the valley it was a welcome surprise to come across mobs of Kangaroos instead of the brumbies I come to expect in any open plain.
I saw the late afternoon out following the road for 4km to the Orroral River, finding a sheltered camp off the road and not far from the river. By now I was exhausted but had to quickly go about setting my tent up as rain threatened, all the while thunder grumbling around the mountain tops.
No sooner than I’d had dinner cooked, eaten and I was bedded down to read a chapter of my book, it started to rain. Intermittent patterns of heavy rain as storm cells passed overhead followed by light pattering rain would continue through the night.
As the dark approached huge lightning bolts cracked from the sky followed shortly by long, low rumbles of thunder. I was glad to be camped in a valley and not up high.
Lightening continued through the night, completely illuminating the inside tent through the thin material and the rain kept coming. It would mean packing up a wet tent in the morning but it didn’t really matter as it would be my last camp pack up.
Mick Beckers 