Posted by What an absolutely freezing cold night and start to the day. I kept the fire going and stoked up before I hit bed. It would emit some heat for a few hours but would be well and truely out by morning. Snow continued through the the early night, ceasing really early morning but the winds didn’t let up.
It was a freezing morning inside Edmonson Hut. Cold enough to freeze my water bottles apart from one I kept near me to sip on through the night. Tucked down in my quilt wearing thermals, beanie, socks and my puffy jacket I did not want to get up and going. Alas, I did not have the food to wait out a day in the hut.
I had some cell service and looked at the Falls Creek weather forecast. Minus 5.4 degrees with a wind chill factor of -15 degrees. I briefly contemplated bailing out to Falls Creek to sit this one out. Briefly, I said. With that aside I committed into the day and reluctantly got moving. At least my socks were dried by the fire last night. Knowing I would would have to wade through snow for a good chunk of the morning on the a real possibility of getting frost nipped feet walking in trail runners, I scrounged some plastic bags from my gear and placed my feet into them to wear inside my runners.
My ultralight gear is at its absolute limits in these conditions and I’d need to keep my wits about me to stay safe.
Stepping outside the winds were fierce and I believed the Falls Creek weather 100%, quite a few degrees below zero in the wind chill. And climbing onto an exposed ridge to start the day I was definitely out in the worst of it, wearing all my layers expect for thermals kept tucked away and dry in the bottom of my pack. Even with windbreaker gloves and shell mitts I had a hell of time keeping my hand warm. Too cold to have them out in the open handling walking poles, I’d stowed my poles and kept my hands in my pockets. I just had to make it to Ropers Hut in the tree line and reassess the situation. I was hoping once in the trees there would be some protection from the wind and that snow would start to disappear.
It was as fast pace to Ropers Hut, doing my best to keep moving without stopping. I made it and while a little protected it was still bloody freezing. The water bottle I carry on the front of pack for easy access had frozen on the walk across from hut to hut. Seeking shelter inside I warmed my hands and tucked into a second breakfast.
From Ropers Hut the track would descend steeply down Duane Spur to the Big River. Snow was still laying on the ground but it did clear the lower I descended. Around half way down it was warm enough to start shedding layers. Who would have though going down hill would be hot work but it was on this steep ground, jumping down from rock to rock in sections. Recent track works had made the going easier, cleared of over hanging vegetation. Last time I hiked this spur I was headed uphill after a Bogong trip and clearly remember having to push through thick vegetation.
Nearing the bottom of Duane Spur I could hear the Big River before I could see it. I was not looking forward to having to cross it. Approaching the river nerves were up. This was definitely not a dry foot crossing. It was deep but hard to tell just how deep. I’d be stripping down to jocks and bare feet for this one for sure. At least the chain was in place spanning the 10m wide river to assist in keeping balance. No snow down this low either which was a bonus.
Shoes and leggings strung around my neck and pack straps undone just in case I’d have bail out out my pack should I loose footing I took it slow wadi g across, one hand on the chain at all times. Damn it was cold. Within seconds a couldn’t really feel my feet in the snow melt cold waters but had to take my time to make sure each foot had a solid placement before taking the next step. I couldn’t get out of there fast enough. Feet numb, I waded to the opposite and a little up the track where I knew there would be a patch of sun (having camped there before).
Phew. Glade to have that out the way. Finding the sun I quickly wiped off any excess water with my bandana, dressed my bottom half and encased my feet in dry socks, ditching the plastic bags from the shoes now.
But the day was just starting. What comes down must go back up. I had TSpur to contend with which was just as every bit as steep up as Duane was down. I just wasn’t sure if I’d encounter snow again. For now it was steeply up and I stripped most of my top layers for the steep climb up, knowing it would be a slow, sweaty climb out.
The pace was slow and it was case if talking many smaller baby steps to conserve energy instead of long stride up. Slowly but surely I climbed up, ascending through much the same forest transitions I’d just climb down through. Climbing up through massive Alpine Ash trees thick with wattles underneath. they finally gave way to snowgums and open grasslands.
Finally teaching the top it was time for a quick lunch. It was nearing 13:30 and I still have 17km to go for the day along Long Spur and across to Mt Wills.
Long Spur was a fantastic walk, high along the ridge line on easy undulating track through snow gums, alpine grass and herb lands. Very enjoyable and fun hiking. On a couple of more open spurs random picnic tables appeared. I wasn’t sure if these had been purposely placed in these locations, because they were in the middle of nowhere, or if they had been failed heli lifts and had to be bailed on top of these spur lines. Neither the less I made the most of them, enjoying quick snack and drink breaks at both.
I’d made to the end of Ling Spur in good time. It was still a ways to go and I wasn’t quite sure if I’d reach my destination for the day, setting myself the goal of reaching the turn off to the spur climb up to Mt Will by 16:30. If I made it by the I’d keep going. If not I’d probably settle for camping at the base of the spur.
From the end of Long Spur to the start of the climb to Mt Wills it would be on fire roads and I had confidence that I could walk these quickly and meet by 16:30 challenge time. Sure enough the roads were quick on undulating terrain. Nearing four o’clock my feet were starting to hurt pounding out quick k’s on the hard track surface and I had to pull over for a break and rest my feet.
Time was getting on and I didn’t quite make the start of the spur line by my cut off time but reasoned that there was heaps of daylight left to reach the hut by night falls. Besides the temptation of not having to camp in what was bound to be another freezing night was too much, as was getting another majorly steep climb out of the way and not having to tackle it first thing in the morning.
I started the spur line up. Very steeply up. In no time the track line turned into absolute garbage, straight up, overgrown and more suitable to goats than humans. Arrhhh. This sort of thing really annoys me about tracks in Australia. What is it with straight, vertical lines uphills? Maybe I’ve been spoiled on overseas trails but the odd switch back wouldn’t go astray. Perhaps its some noble idea that this what bushwalking is all about. Tough hills, climbing straight up. It is rubbish. The AAWT could be a world class trail with a bit more though, some love and maintenance. The route has been altered over the years so why not in these sections to make them wind more readily across slow and gaining height with switch backs. Is it lack of funds by land mangers, lack of active interest by land managers or friends ground. We could an awesome trail, attracting international attention but we don’t. Instead we get straight up and down tracks that hold the interest of a few dedicated hikers. Time to lit our game. The AAWT has been interesting to do and cross it off my bucket list but its sections like this that have me saying, once and only only once. I will never again do the full AAWT due to frustrations which multiple sections of track like this. Rant over.
Needless to say it was slow battle up this hill but I got there, hitting the top and onto the road towards Wills Hut.
I’d made it with plenty if daylight left to get settled i to the hut, collect firewood and get the fire cranked up. It felt like it would be another chilly one.
There was some cell service in the hut and I was able to check my messages, finding that Operation Hat Drop had been a success with the crew from work retrieving my hiking hat from home and placing it at my food drop at the Benambra-Corryong Road, 2 days away. They didn’t quite find my food drop, it was too well hidden but sent me a pic of someone elses food drop at which they had my hat left in zip lock bags under the food bucket there. Should be easy enough to find.
Mick Beckers 