Posted by 21.5 miles
Today brought with it the promise of the beauty of the Cirque of the Towers which lay 10 miles ahead. This is supposed to be one of the most spectacular sections of the CDT which I was very excited to hike through, although it is on an alternate route, not the main CDT Red Line trail which I just don’t understand. Just about everyone does this alternate.
The first part of the day was relatively straightforward mostly on descending ground. Beyond that there were definitely climbs that I under anticipated that took much longer than expected. The heatwave trend continued and it was a long slow grind up several hills. Frequent short breaks in the shade were required.
On reaching one high point views of the Cirque finally presented. Towering grey peaks flanking both sides of the valley entrance lay ahead. I couldn’t wait.
Once into the valley proper, it was matter of following Little Sandy Creek up towards its headwaters. Snowmelt still clung to the sides of the hills that were clearly feeding the small lake at which Little Sandy Originated. There was a major climb from here up-to a saddle and into the new valley. I completely lost the trail and ended up scrambling straight up a scree field, often taking one step up only to loose a couple on the loose material. It was only when relatively high up that I spied a series of switchbacks that I’d completely bypassed. Quickly reconnecting with the trail I crept my way to the top of the saddle. It was another really hot day despite being at altitude in the hills with snow about.
From the top of the saddle it was straight down the other side into the new valley. An extremely steep descent leading onto a series of alpine lakes.
Around 5pm the heat was getting to me. Completely saturated with sweat and drained of energy I decided I needed to have a dip in one of the lakes. Snow still clung to the lake edges in places and it was bound to be freezing. I was so hot I didn’t care. Even if it was a few seconds dip, it would cool me down at least. With no-one around I stripped naked and walked in to bone chillingly freezing waters that immediately took my breath away. I managed to dip my upper body and head for a few seconds and that was it. My feet were numb and it was time to get back out. Clothes were spread out in the sun to dry the sweat and feeling completely refreshed I sat for a few minutes to air dry myself.
I pushed on for another hour before finding a shady spot to cook dinner on the side of the trail. This has become the norm now and I’m still getting used to cooking away from camp, having to pretty much unpack my backpack on the side of the trail a mile or so before camping, cooking and then storing anything with a scent into my bear sack, which is then hung in a tree at least 100m from my tent site.
Cooking in the open without the protection of tent bug netting is highly annoying due to the squadrons of mosquitoes that appear from no where. It’s way too much effort to pitch my tent just to cook and then pack it up again so I opt for pulling on rain pants and bug head net. It does mean dinners like this are as brief as they can be – pull on bug protective layers; pull out food and cooking gear; cook; shovel food down; repack; and start walking.
In the past I’ve been able to out walk mozzies but this variety seem to be the F-15 fighter jet version that keep up with me.
Daylight hours are starting to disappear now too. When I started this hike I would typically wake just after 5am with the sunrise and would be hiking around 6 am. Now, past the summer solstice, a minute or two is added to the sunrise each day. It’s increasingly difficult to rise when my alarm goes off and I find I’m hitting snooze more and more. Its dark now when I first wake and I seem to getting away from camp more towards 6:15 to 6:30.
This time difference doesn’t seem like a lot but I have to also add in cooking on trail time as a bear deterrent. Time is lost at both ends of the day and sees it harder and harder to push really big miles. 22 to 24 miles seems to be my sweet spot.
Arriving at Big Sandy Lake I managed to pitch my tent just in time before it started to rain.
Mick Beckers 