Posted by 8.2 miles
It was only 8.2 miles into Cuba, a short 3.8 on trail and then a road bash into town. I was away from camp by 6am ready to hit town. The walking was fast and I’d made it to the town by a quarter to 9.
I headed straight for the Cuban Cafe for second breakfast. I soon had my coffee and was joined by X-Ray a short time later. I was sure he was going to be in front of me. He passed my camp last night, headed on for bit and I must have passed him on my way in town.
Second breakfast was amazing. A big helping of 3 egg omelette with bacon and veg and endless coffee.
Arriving so early in town if was decision time. From Cuba it was only 60 miles or 2 and bit days to get into Ghost Ranch, my next stop and where I had sent food ahead for the final stretch of New Mexico. But hooking into to wifi service for the first time in days I saw that my shoes ordered from REI and sent to Ghost Ranch haven’t even been shipped yet. Initially I thought about an in and out from Cuba, doing a quick laundry run and resupply and heading back out on trail but on seeing the status of my shoes I thought there is no point in rushing to Ghost Ranch. If my shoes didn’t arrive by the time I hit there I’d have to wait for them or move on and forego the cost of shoes. Ghost Ranch would not be in a position to assist in forwarding shoes should they arrive after I’d left.
What to do. After breakfast I made the decision to check into a motel and have an easy day. At least in Cuba I would have access to cheap accommodation, food and a shower. Waiting around at Ghost Ranch for a couple of days would be hugely expensive and cost time. Fingers crossed I get an update that my shoes have been shipped today. The initial purchase made in Grants indicated they should arrive by the 29th, three days away.
Across the road from the cafe was the Cuban Lodge a completely run down motel. I saw a couple of other hikers there and thought I’d check in. It didn’t look busy at all and I thought there was a good chance of a very early check in. Other motels in town, there weren’t many, had a check in time of 4pm and I certainly wan’t going to waiting around in town all day for that.
I was spot on. The elderly couple running the place had me checked in early. Cash payment only. The room was exactly as expected, dilapidated and had a certain aged patina to it. Most importantly it had a shower that worked and was hot with good pressure, a bed and even a microwave and fridge. It would do.
I’d rather have a shorter day in Cuba where there are services than having to wait out at Ghost Ranch for my shoes. Fingers crossed.
I spent the day getting cleaned up and resupplied. It looks odd but something I’m sure the locals are used to seeing, hikers dressed in rain gear hanging around the laundromat as clothes are washed and dried.
I been having issues with my US eSIM with absolutely no cell service in towns for several weeks while my primary Australian SIM had full signal which I could use at huge expense for global roaming. It took the opportunity to visit Macca’s and utilise their wifi to investigate what the problem was. I was able to contact the eSIM provider and while I had been issued a US phone number on their end they couldn’t see that it had even been properly activated. I took my time nibbling on a Big Mac meal while I updated my phones IOS and sorted through a free replacement eSIM. Cell service is not critical on trail as the mapping app I’m using utilises satellite to pin point my location however service is damn handy for staying in contact with people and prearranging accommodation and other bits of pieces.
While my phone sorted I headed to a nearby grocery store for a small resupply, deliberately choosing this it because it was not a change store and had a Welcome CDT Hikers sign out front. It should only take 2 big days or 2.5 days to reach Ghost Ranch.
Mick Beckers 