Posted by 14.8 miles
Camping where I did really set me up well to complete New Mexico, reach the border and descend down to Cumbres Pass by mid morning for a half day in town and full zero tomorrow. Camped in the pines provided shelter from the winds but it was a cold night, probably the coldest on trail to date and a taste of what is to come into Colorado.
It was a short 1.6 miles along the road on which I’d camped to connect back to the Red Line and a straight forward 10 miles to reach the border. I had a spring in my step and was moving fast, trying to get my 10 miles in by 10 am.
There were plenty of elk around this morning. Easily spooked and difficult to approach close enough for any decent photos. Water was plentiful in the small streams and numerous snow melt run offs. I passed one other hiker this morning but only briefly exchanged pleasantries and failed to catch his name. He was on a section of the CDT but not thru hiking.
I’ve timed my run through New Mexico really well with the entire trail snow free. This is somewhat different to several weeks ago with hikers post poling along ling stretches of soft snow covering trail. And despite a trail crew having headed through to clear fallen timber, evident from the fresh saw dust on the ground, there was still plenty of tree fall to negotiate either going around, under or over the numerous large blown down across the trail.
I could easily get used to this terrain. Tall pines and spruce forests intersected regularly by vast open alpine meadows. The tell tale signs of recent snows melted marked the landscape with wet marshy areas and spring growth of vegetation that was until recently buried beneath. Lush and vibrant greens.
I reached the border just after 10am and couldn’t have been happier to say good bye to New Mexico and hello to Colorado. The yellow NM licence plate I’ve been carrying since Cuba was settled into its new home on the border post along with several other licence plates already there.
Under a tree I spied an esky and on opening it discovered a fresh stocking of beer and sodas. Reading the log book it looks like I just missed the trail angels responsible, JJ and Sweattooth. 18 minutes behind them I though there was a good chance I could catch them on the descent to not only thank them for their generosity but possibly to score a ride for the 15 miles into town. Not before grabbing a can of beer to drink on the way down. Beers at 10:18am on a Tuesday, nothing better
I wasn’t able to catch them despite my fastest pace and at times running on clear well groomed tracks. But alas, I literally reached the pass, put my thumb out and scored a ride into town from two retired Texan’s out to Durango for the day. They were great and having spent quite a but of time out this way I was giving the verbal tour. This was awesome through town as they pointed out the good places to eat, best supermarkets etc.. It is weird though, finally crossing into Colorado but having to backtrack into New Mexico to the town of Chama.
In town by 11am, I headed to Subway for a quick food fix and to see about accommodation for tonight and tomorrow. I’ll take a day off tomorrow to regroup and rest. I found the Cumbre Suites a Mom and Pop run business, sort of like a cross between a motel and BnB. This will do nice as its close to the best supermarket in town.
Laundry is a pain though with no facilities offered where I’m staying and a 1.7 mile walk to the Laundromat. Chama is long and spread out. I thought I’d get this done today and so headed out to make the walk. I was all of about 0.3 miles in when local outfitter Tumbleweed pulled up and offered me a ride. Perfect! So that is where I find myself writing this, in the laundromat waiting on washing. Best laundromat ever stocked with hunting magazines to bide some time.
I still have to hike back though. Other chores can wait until tomorrow, including a visit to Tumbleweed’s to get kitted out with ice spikes and axe for the next section ahead.
Mick Beckers 